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THE TABLELANDS LOOP
Embark on a counter-clockwise loop of this hilly region, passing through picture-postcard towns and agricultural farmland in an ambling fashion.
Start your journey at the chilled-out town of Kuranda, best accessed via the historical Kuranda Scenic Railway, which commenced operations in 1891. This 34 km rail journey wends its way from Cairns through 15 tunnels and jaw-dropping vistas. After fossicking for handicrafts and local produce at the local markets, head back down
via the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. The Skyrail is one of the world’s longest gondola cableways and a modern counterpoint to the Kuranda train. If you take the Skyrail, you’ll need to book a transfer back to Cairns as it terminates at Smithfield, 15 minutes from the city.
Continue south, passing through Mareeba, the administrative heart of the agricultural region. Here, the town’s main street evokes mid-west America and makes for a perfect setting for
an R. M. Williams commercial. Stop by the Mt Uncle Distillery (1819 Chewko Rd, Walkamin) for a tasting of its superb whisky rum and honey vodka and a wood-fired pizza or two.
Push on back south past Mareeba to Atherton,
a good in-between stop for visiting nearby Herberton and Yungaburra. Route 52 takes
you to charming Herberton, where pretty jacaranda trees line the streets with its backdrop of historical buildings. A must-see here is
the Herberton Historic Village (6 Broadway
St). The site houses a private collection of 50 painstakingly restored buildings – each packed with historical objects – dating back to 1870. Stop for a surprisingly good fish burger at the Jacaranda Coffee Lounge (52 Grace St) before heading on to the eerie Mt Hypipamee Crater. From the car park, go past Dinner Falls – a series of waterfalls – to this 128 m water-filled crater: certainly not for those who suffer from vertigo!
Return to Highway 1 and loop northeast to Yungaburra. Cairns locals retreat to delightful Yungaburra for a spa retreat and a touch of top- quality country dining.
The Yungaburra Markets, held every fourth Saturday of the month, offers visitors a chance to mingle with the locals and stock up on craft and produce. Get directions from the tourist information centre to the platypus-viewing platforms and stake out for a sight of these cute
monotremes paddling along the stream. Finish your visit with a meal at Flynn’s (17 Eacham Rd). Chef and owner Liam Flynn serves up an ever-changing mix of award-winning European and Mediterranean-inspired dishes made from local produce.
From Yungaburra, make a slight detour south towards Malanda. Join a guided rainforest walk and you might spot a tree kangaroo. The animal parade continues at Malanda Falls – look out for saw-shelled turtles and pademelons.
Heading a further 20 minutes south from Malanda will lead you to Falls Circuit near Millaa Millaa. Satiate your appetite for waterfalls by doing a loop of the four falls along this 16 km route: Millaa Millaa, Zillie, Ellinjaa and Mungalli Falls. Reward your hard work with delicious homemade ice cream and yoghurt at Mungalli Creek Dairy (251 Brooks Rd).
On the route back to Cairns, drop by Lake Barrine in the Crater Lakes National Park. This popular, croc-free waterhole is perfect for a
dip during the summer. If the water’s too cold, go for a walk along a 5 km track through thick rainforest ringing the lake. The Lake Barrine Rainforest Teahouse (Gillies Hwy) overlooks the lake and offers Devonshire tea in addition to 45-minute lake cruises. Nearby Lake Eacham, is another idyllic spot with crystal-clear waters – jump off the swimming pontoon and keep your eyes out for turtles!
Skyrail rainforest Cableway
A Fan palm tree canopy found in the Daintree rainforest
28 AUTUMN 2014
ON THE ROAD
If you’re hiring a car, note that you’re not allowed to take 2WDs along unsealed roads. If you’re planning a road trip up north through the Cape York Peninsula via Cape Tribulation and the Bloomfield Track or heading west along the Savannah Way, you’ll need to hire or drive your own 4WD.
Note that mobile phone reception is patchy and you should always ensure your vehicle has spares. Carry ample drinking water in the event of a breakdown. Note also that the region is impassable during The Wet (November– April). If you’re game for adventure, look up ‘Cape York River Crossing’ on YouTube for some hairy 4WD action.
Most of the unsealed roads become corrugated towards the end of tourist season, making for a bumpy ride. When the road narrows down to a single lane, take care and give way to oncoming road trains... yes, they have (unofficial) right of way.
If you’re taking alcohol into the region, you’ll need to respect restrictions
put in place around ‘dry’ Aboriginal communities. The restrictions either ban or limit the amount and type of alcohol you can carry into a community.


































































































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