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town of Tongshi, the capital of the Li and Miao Autonomous Prefecture. Hainan is home to three of China’s 56 minority “nationalities” and examples of their distinct culture can be found in the villages outside town.
Note that the cack-handed commercialisation of minority culture – a problem throughout China – is particularly acute in Hainan. Most of Hainan’s so-called “Minority Villages” are tacky beyond compare. You’re better off spending time seeking out some genuine local culture. Real Li villages, located in the mountainous highland areas, may not be as loud, proud and gaudy as the staged “wedding” shows you might see in the tourist equivalent.
Hainan’s sometimes exploitative attitude to tourism development can be frustrating. The rocky coastline at Tianya Haijiao (“The End of The Earth”), for example, is accessible only through an overpriced and kitsch “culture park”. Similarly, the giant Guanyin statue at Nanshan may be impressive in size but prices are high and – considering the area is supposed to be a Buddhist centre – the park feels strangely soulless.
Good Buys
Hainan offers the shopper a plethora of minority crafts as well as the usual seaside fare – coconut-shell crafted gifts and seashell necklaces. However, the island really comes into its own with its pearl markets where prices are fabulously cheap, although attention must be paid to the quality of the product.
Hainan offers plenty of minority crafts and seaside souvenirs
The fruits of the sea don’t end there. Seafood in Hainan is plentiful and among the cheapest in China. At dusk, droves of street vendors grill a bounty of fresh fare, including clam, lobster, crab, squid and kelpfish. For dessert, gnaw on sugarcane like the locals do or enjoy coconut juice, served straight from the shell for as little as 1 yuan. If you like tea, try Lan Gui Ren which is said to be good for the complexion.
So after a millennia of bad press, Hainan is finally getting a break. A phalanx of marketing folks is now telling the world about its many endearing qualities: Sumptuous food, soothing hot springs, lush landscape, luxurious hotels. However, Hainan’s gems are its white sand, whispering palms and fresh coconut juice. China’s beaches have been well and truly discovered.
EV Tips
GETTING THERE
By Air
There are daily scheduled flights from
all over China (including Hong Kong)
to both Haikou and Sanya. Hainan Airlines is considered to be one of the best domestic carriers. Recently, Sanya witnessed an explosion in the number
of charter flights arriving from overseas. Singapore and South Korea have begun sending passenger aircraft direct to Sanya. Contact your local travel agent for details.
Boat
There are a handful of ferries operating between Haikou and Guangdong (including Guangzhou), though they are comparatively slow and routes are subject to frequent change.
Train
There is an overnight train direct from Guangzhou to Haikou.
GETTING AROUND
High-speed buses link Haikou and Sanya in three hours. Choose from three different routes between the two cities. You can easily get around the rest of
the island by bus or minibus. Sanya is also one of the few Chinese cities where foreigners can rent a car, although at great expense.
VISAS
If you are travelling in a large tourist group and a resident of one of 21- approved countries, it is now possible
to get a 15-day visa-on-arrival at Sanya International Airport. Ordinarily, China requires most foreign nationals to have a visa to enter Mainland China (including Hainan). Thirty-day tourist visas can be obtained from your nearest embassy or consulate. Travellers arriving in Hong Kong can apply for a visa there.
WEATHER
Hainan has high temperatures year- round. Rainfall is high through summer and autumn. The best time to visit is between November and April when temperatures are milder and rainfall is low. Avoid visiting during the Chinese New Year period.
RCI Resorts In Hainan
• Noble Yacht Club, Hainan
• TRAC at Hainan Noble
Yalong Bay Central Square
Yacht Club
• Haixing Yunlong Bay Resort
ENDLESS VACATION 17